Frustrating contrasts

This morning we went to Nyanga township, the most dangerous and poorest of the black townships.  Just yesterday 2 policemen were murdered less than 300 yards from the project.  It was very evident driving in that this area was different---lots of burned out shacks and a look of depression in the body language of the street vendors.  We arrived at Etafeni Project and immediately it was clear this place was special.  It is secure -- security guard at the big high fence with rolling gate, like at an embassy.  It is green, has big lawns and trees with birds nesting in them.  We learned it is a "mature" project.  It was started 11 years ago by women in the community going to an open space and watching the children there.  It grew as others (by that I think they mean white folks) came and helped them to develop and realize their hopes and dreams.  The bricks used in the buildings were made by the women in the community, the buildings were built by local men.  It is a creche (nursery school) for children with AIDS, HIV or affected by it.  There are currently 88 children enrolled.  It is a safe, serene and peaceful place.  Very beautiful.   We learned about the huge stigma that having AIDS is in the black community.  You are isolated, unable to get a job, keep a job.  Yet, the social structure of the community spreads the virus.  Young women migrating from the Eastern Cape (poorest area) here to get work, end up, we were told with 3 sugar daddies:  one to provide the place to live, one to provide their food, one to provide their clothing.  So their is little hope for them.  This project aims to take women and children with AIDS and empower them to have job skills, help them to live with their chronic disease.  Listening to all this and seeing this beautiful facility, I concluded that it takes lots of money (from government, dept of education, private S. African foundations, from overseas including grants from the Ford Foundation) totally 12 million Rand a year (divide by 10 to get $$).  There were hardly any children around because it is winter holiday - like all the sites we have visited.  Peter, the leader of the place, told us "just our presence alone transforms the mind-set of the people here, bridging a tremendous gap"  So few white people ever come, that just being there makes a difference and shows them that at least some few of us care.  It is hard to me to imagine what I could do to help out.

This afternoon I took a bus tour around Table Mountain, heading especially to Kirstenbosch Botanitcal Garden.  I didn't even know that I needed to be nourished by the beauty of the open green gardens, the beautiful proteas and wonderful birds, but I did.  I was impressed by the posh area the Botanical Garden is in. white  S. AFricans live well.